Story by David J Sams, Lone Star Outdoor News
A trip to Big Bend or to see the Marfa lights can be made complete with a stay at one of the most iconic and historic ranches in Texas.
To open the gate at Cibolo Creek Ranch, you ring a doorbell button in the middle of a metal silhouette of a quail. As the gate swings open, your mind starts wondering.
“I’m driving through historic American bison country,” you might think.
Then you come around the corner and there stands a large bison herd.
As you drive in, you see the oasis — as green as in a dream. Giant cottonwood trees cover the restored El Fortin del Cibolo, now called Cibolo Creek Ranch.
Iconic Texas businessman John Poindexter restored the three historic forts that were built by Milton Faver in the mid 1850s. Poindexter, an avid quail hunter, prefers blue quail hunting because of the challenge. He’s also a dog lover and accomplished shooter. His go-to dog is the English cocker spaniel, which he gets from a breeder in southern Georgia. His 2-year- old, Rosie, roams the resort and greets guests.
The Chinati Mountains rise on the far western edge of Texas. In the shadow of the Chinati Peak, 7,726 feet above sea level, a historic spring trickles through to the resort, disappears under the bar and shows up at the lake.
The grounds have a feeling of old Mexico, and most of the employees make the 30-mile drive from across the border each day to work in the shade of the cottonwoods.
We booked a day at the resort, expecting to pay full price but happy to receive a 10-percent discount. We stayed in a standard room with a great view of the courtyard and the subtle sound of the spring flowing through the aquaducts with small waterfalls. The floors are Saltillo tile and there were 600-thread-count sheets on the bed. Attention to detail was seen through- out the resort.
The dining room and bar has a beautiful view of the lake, and meals are served family style. The chef decides the menu each day, and we were treated to roasted quail with habanero jam for dinner and beef enchiladas for lunch.
With only a 24-hour window, we jumped on the chance to fish the two lakes. We were told the irrigation lake might have better fishing, we drove the 1/4-mile down-river to cast for bass, bluegill and rainbow trout.
It was hot, but the largemouth were still spawning and, with the crystal-clear water, you could see all the action. I caught four small bass and one good one on one-half of a senko, and my wife caught one on a fly rod that was attacked by a larger bass that I ended up catching later. While fighting that big bass, I watched a 30-inch rainbow trout cruise by, an exciting moment highlighting the few hours of fishing.
What wasn’t exciting was the fishing equipment. It took me 15 minutes to un- tangle the dozen or so rods, find one that would work and then make do with only two plastic worms I found. I knew better — I should have brought my own equipment and lures.
On this quick tour, we wanted to experience what anyone else would, so we took a look at the activity list and picked out a few things to try.
We signed up for a morning ATV tour to the top of the ranch, and it was worth the view. We saw aoudad, mule deer, javelina, springbuck, fox and a golden eagle. We also saw some of the movie sets from The Three Burials of Melquiades Estrada and learned about the history of the ranch.
Other choices on the activity list included sporting clays, a pistol range and a 1-mile long shooting range.
In the heat of the day, we toured the resort’s museum rooms and saw artifacts and photos from the past.
There’s more than fishing at Cibolo Creek Resort. The ranch offers some great hunt- ing on the 33,000 acres. It’s home to more than 30 species of native and exotic animals, including American bison, Roosevelt Elk, mule deer, aoudad, Carmen Mountain whitetails, javelina, mountain lion, blackbuck, gemsbok, Cape buffalo and Transcaspian urial. Free-range and high-fenced terrain is available on land ranging from 4,000-7,000 feet in elevation.
The $6,500 2-day package for aoudad looked appealing, along with a mule deer hunt for $7,500 — and you can camp out on the ranch for free.
Most hunters stay about 30 minutes away from Cibolo Creek at the Cienega, a self-contained complex that can accom- modate up to 25 guests in the restored fort and adjoining hacienda.
Trent Whitesell, the wildlife manager and hunting guide, said hunters took 13 mule deer bucks last year, most averaging 160 to 180 inches. They take around 40 aoudad per year, and the elk range around 320 inches. Hunters have the option to track game on foot, horseback or 4×4 ranch vehicle. And, of course, there are wild blue quail hunts offered, at the reasonable price of $600 per person per day, along with hunts for released birds.
History of Cibolo Creek
Local lore says Milton Faver headed to West Texas after emerging victorious from a deadly duel in Missouri in the mid-1800s. Over several decades, Faver established a flourishing trading business along the Rio Grande. Three forts built strategically across the property stood as strongholds against bandits and Apache and Coman- che raiders.
El Fortin del Cibolo, “Fort of the Buffa- lo,” was a trading and agriculture site along Cibolo Creek. El Fortin de la Cienega, “Fort of the Marsh,” served as headquarters for the cattle operation. El Fortin de la Morita, “Fort at the Little Mulberry Tree,” housed the sheep and goat enterprise. Each are listed in the National Register of Historic Places and the property hosts five Texas State Historical Markers.
Cibolo Creek Resort is located south of Marfa and adjoins Big Bend State Park. Whether you have time for a one-day adventure or can schedule a mule deer or exotics hunting trip, it should be near the top of any Texas enthusiast’s list.
Yes, it’s pricey, but it’s worth it.
